FAQs

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What is the proper bearing adjustment?
  1. Fully assemble end unit with Spindle, Hub w/Bearing Races (cones), Bearing Cups & Oil Seal, Castle Nut, and Washers (Flat washer, D- washer, Tang washer as specified in the BOM for the end unit).
  2. With Spindle secured at axle mounting end, tighten & torque Castle Nut to 40 to 50 pounds while rotating or oscillating (rotating partially back & forth) the hub. A minimum of three (3) complete rotations of the Hub about the spindle is necessary while applying torque to the Castle Nut. This step fully “seats” and aligns the bearings’ rollers within the cones and cups.
  3. Next loosen the Castle Nut 1/6 to ¼ of a turn (1 flat or 1 slot of the Castle Nut). Check that the Hub rotates on the spindle freely, with no obvious internal friction. If internal friction is felt, loosen the Castle Nut 1/6 of a turn more.
    Check that the cotter pin will pass through the Castle Nut slot and spindle drilling or that the Tang Washer is correctly oriented.

    If a Castle Nut slot or flat does not align with the cotter pin hole or tang washer tab after loosening 1/6 turn, loosen the Castle nut a little more until it does.

  4. Check endplay between the spindle & hub by pulling outward on the hub with both hands. There should be no movement detected. If movement is detected, repeat steps 2, 3 & 4.
  5. Insert the cotter pin and bend the legs around the Castle Nut or Bend the Tang Washer Tabs to lock the Castle Nut.
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Why are some axles bent in the middle?

Sometimes you will notice a slight bend in the axle that is not a “V’d” axle as described below. Sometimes to set the camber of the wheel (angular relationship to the road) the axle must be bent slightly to make it match the trailer builder’s requirements. Most times the axle is designed with a camber that takes into the consideration the load that will be placed on the axle.

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Can I weld additional brackets onto a torsion axle?

No, only during the pre-production of the axle tube. After the axle is assembled, only the mounting brackets can accept welding. The extreme heat axle that welding produces can damage the rubber inside the axle.

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Why is it necessary to tow a trailer level?

Yes, especially with multi axle trailers. Spring axles have some forgiveness with the equalizer between the springs. Torsion axles do not have this feature and towing an un-level torsion axle trailer places most or all of the trailer weight on one axle. This will lead to premature tire wear, loss of braking power and possible axle or trailer damage.

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Can I use 3 Torsion axles under my trailer?

There are many trailer manufacturers that build triple torsion axles with great success and reliability. Generally these manufacturers “down rate” the axle capacity to cover the shock loads that the trailer may experience. Tie Down Engineering and other major axle manufacturers do not recommend triple torsion axle applications without thought to load balance and shock loads. Torsion axles are totally independent and are not equalized like a typical leaf spring set of axles. Torsion axles have many benefits over spring axles but they do not have the ability to transfer loads from one axle to another as in a spring axle set that has equalizers between the spring mounts. The entire load of the trailer can be put on one torsion axle when hitting a pothole, curb, uneven surface, railroad tracks or speed bumps. Rear axles can experience overload on boat ramps where a rear tire drops off the end of the ramp and the full load of a wet boat and tow vehicle is placed on the one axle. The weight transfer can be exaggerated even more if the trailer is not towed level. Even though the overload may be short lived, it isn’t reasonable to expect one axle to carry the entire load of three axles when these conditions occur.

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